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The heart of the Sharma home is the chulha – a U-shaped, mud-plastered stove in a corner of the kitchen, blackened by generations of smoke. Asha’s daughter-in-law, Priya, has already gathered the dried cow-dung cakes ( upale ) from the backyard. There is no click of a gas knob. Instead, Asha takes a flint stone, strikes a spark onto a tuft of dried grass, and coaxes the flame into life under a small pyramid of kindling and dung cakes. The first smoke is acrid, sharp, and smells of earth and sun-dried fuel. This is the smell of home.

To cook like an Indian is to: